In Beijing, Geng Xiaoyun, owner of Kunyuan restaurant, has removed the popular dish of salt-baked chicken feet, known as “phoenix talons,” from his menu due to a 30% price increase resulting from tariffs on American imports. Although he now sources chicken feet from Brazil and Russia, Geng believes they don’t measure up to the quality of American chicken, describing them as “spongy” and flavorful. He retains a small supply of U.S. chicken feet and remains hopeful that prices will drop if the political landscape stabilizes.
The temporary 90-day tariff ceasefire between China and the U.S., reached in May, is now at risk as both countries accuse each other of violating the agreement. The Chinese Commerce Ministry has criticized U.S. actions, such as export controls on artificial intelligence chips, for undermining the Geneva pact. In response, American agricultural products are disappearing from Chinese markets and restaurants, losing ground to other imports.
For example, Home Plate, a restaurant known for American-style barbecue, recently stopped serving U.S. beef. Instead, it now uses Australian beef, which incurs no tariffs under the China-Australia Free Trade Agreement. Liu Li, a beef supplier in Beijing, noted that tariffs on American beef have increased its price by 50%, lamenting the situation and stating, “U.S. beef is fattier and tastier.” The ongoing trade tensions have led to significant disruptions in supply, affecting the availability and prices of popular American food items in China.
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